|
|
|
|
| The Wrong Way Round - Finding Liamo | |||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Not sure if you would have gathered it, but I wrote the last posting having heard that a state of emergency had been declared in Nepal and that it has been effectively cut off from the outside world. The idea was that you would think that I had not heard of it and be very disappointed for me. I am not overly bothered about visiting Nepal although it would have been nice. Am in Beijing at the moment, but more on that later. Going on this trip we knew that we would be required to meet and engage with a wide variety of different people from a multitude to different backgrounds, culturally, econonically and ethnically. Despite this, it was with some shock that I learned that we would have to share our train carriage to Beijng and our hostel there with five lads from one of the most notorious ethnic groups on the planet - the Dubs. I tried as best I could to communicate with them and understand their strange language. I discussed the three things Dubs love most - Aslan, heroin and coddle. When they started to get rowdy because the train was taking too long I even played Aslan's "Crazy World" (2004 Remix) (or it might have been the 2001, 2002 or 2003 remix) and this was partly successful. There was alot of tension on board as the lads had upstaged the Mongolians in the trade stakes at every stop, selling off their plentiful supply of lighters and wrapping paper (5 for 50 tugrat). I had a big chat with the lads about their trip and they agreed that the deprivation, filth, poverty and lack of facilities was terrible but I was sick of hearing about Dublin and tried to steer the lads to talk of lands further afield. It was at that point that the lads opened their discussion about that fact that toilets in China are "squatters" rather than "sitters". Who would have thought that five lads could speak for so long and in such detail about such a subject, complete with actions. Anyway, back to the important stuff. I first want to tell you about the "Land of the Blue Sky" - Mongolia. I am loath to recommend that everyone visit Mongolia as it is so unspoilt, but it really is an amazing place. I was a bit worried before arrival that everything would be closed down for the very harsh winters that they have there. The Lonely Planet referred to the possibility of staying in a ger with a family and all the activities which could be done in the Mongolian countryside, all these seemed to be summer acivities though, not good for two lads following the winter. We arrived in Ulaan Baator at about 7.45 am. As usual, due to our lack of trust of taxi drivers we walked to the hostel from the train station. In picking the hostel there were four possibilities and in the end we went with the UB Guesthouse due to its central location and the fact that it had a Korean. We thought that a Korean lad might be more business orientated and might have ger stays arranged for guests. Picking the UB Guesthouse was one of the great decisions. The hostel was exactly what we had been looking for and had not found in Russia. They were really friendly and on the ball and we were delighted to see that they offered trips to Terilj, about one a half hours outside of Ulaan Baator. We dropped our rucksacks in the six-bed dorm for which we were paying $4 each a night and headed to avail ourselves of the free breakfast (unlimited herbal tea, bread, nutella and jam). Ulaan Baator is not one of the most beautiful cities, but a large part of the blame for this can be attributed to Stalin. It was during his purges in the late thirties that many of the buddist temples and older buildings in the city were destroyed. We did visit the oldest temple which miraculously had survived the purges. We checked out a few other sights around the city and then mellowflamjellowed in the hostel. It wasn't long before the trip to Terilj and the ger stay came around. Two lads picked us up in a car and after stopping at the shop to get some presents for the family, we headed off into the countryside. After about forty five minutes the roads stopped and we were driving on dirt tracks. We then veered left and headed up the snow covered hills to the ger. At one point, three of us had to get out of the car to push it up a snowy slope. On arriving at the ger, we were welcomed like prodigal sons and were brought in for cherry flavoured tea and biscuits. We were surprised to see that the family had a DVD player. The fathers name was Otko, he was 33 and had two small children who spent each week at school in Ulaan Baator. The ger was also occupied by his wife and two neighbours who we think were orphans. Jonba was 21 and Mucko was 23. Unfortunately Mucko was deaf and dumb and had also been kicked by a horse when he was a small fella and had quite a bad limp. Everyone was really sound and we settled in for a lovely dinner before heading out on the horse trek. We had been told that the trek would last about two hours but it turned out to be four. The trek was across some of the nicest scenery that we have ever seen, very white but nice. Anyone who knows Dec will know that he loves riding, he really enjoyed it. We stopped off along the way at a "neighbouring" ger and were given bread and yak butter tea which has to be one of the most disgusting drinks ever. After we got back from the trek it was nearly dark and so we had dinner and retired to our ger for the night. Our ger didn't have electricity and so we had to read by candlelight. I had been given a book in UB about a guy travelling across the Mongol Empire and so it was pretty cool to read that. Occassionally we would go outside as it was really hot in the ger as they kept bringing in firewood for the stove (it was minus 40 degrees outside though). It was amazing, the sky was so clear and it was so dark without any artificial light that you could see so many stars. The next morning, I went outside to go to the toilet and on opening the door was greeted by about five horses and two bulls standing outside. We just chilled out for the day, went up for a hike for about three hours and saw a hawk, a woodpecker (not like Woody at all) and a fox. I helped Jonba to get water from the well and chopped some firewood with him. Jonba was fascinated with having his photograph taken and would instruct me as to the angles to photograph him from as he was chopping or drawing water. Later on he got hold of the camera and took some pictures of himself. We also headed for a camel ride. After spending the last three weeks with Dec, the camels smelt so fresh and I longed to stay with them. That evening we were joined by a Dutch guy, Mattheus, who had been in our hostel, and we played cards and chatted. It was with some regret that we left the solitude of the steppe the nxt day to return to UB but the trains to Beijing were only twice weekly and like the Littlest Hobo we had to move on. The train ride from UB to Beijing was very pleasant, we were sharing with Kolya, a German guy who could speak English, and ????, a Danish guy who had promised himself that he would travel before he hit 50. We were just glad to have avoided scout boy and godfather. We are in Beijing now and I will write about this shortly. Initially I was thinking fair play to the Dublin lads for heading to Australia via a slightly different route. Unfortunately, the little rascals haven't left the hotel for three days. Every day they encounter an obstacle to entering the Forbidden City, you can't go in with bags (I went in with mine), it closes at 5 pm etc. etc. They have also been stunned to learn that the embassies where they need to get visas are closed for the Chinese New Year and so they may be stuck here for a while. China has been great so far and I think we will really like it. I will update you soon on all that has happened here. The trip has really gone up a gear since we left Russia. I think that I have A.D.D. or something as I only have to sleep about four or five hours a night. Dec has been making up for me though. On the train Dec stuck for long periods to the top bunk, or as it came to be known, his nest. On the few occasions that he would venture downwards he resembled a new born lamb learning to walk. Well, I'd better go, the Dubs want me to join in another sing song about a prostitute who also did a side line in shell fish in our capital city. It's like a little piece of Carrigstown in China. Talk to you soon |
|
|||||||||
bravenet.com